Nashville is foot-stomping fun

By Bob Becker

Photos by Gerald Merna

The audience looks the part, at least the folks down front, closest to the TV cameras. Cowboy hats, boots, jeans and assorted Western wear. They're already wound up and ready for TNN cable network's country music program on the grounds of Opryland to go on the air. Suddenly the whole studio explodes with the foot-stomping sounds of a country music band, cranked up full blast. Country music star Lee Greenwood, dressed in black leather, saunters onto center stage and launches into his "signature" song, "God Bless the USA." The audience goes wild.

Welcome to the country music capital of the world, Nashville, TN, the home of the legendary Grand Ole Opry. This is where country music stars of yesteryear still perform in sequined cowboy outfits and bib overalls and contemporary superstars like Greenwood, Garth Brooks, Vince Gill, Dolly Parton, Ricky Skaggs, Randy Travis and Reba McEntire have remade an entire industry in their own image.

"We love our country music here, no doubt about it," says Jan Young, customer relations coordinator for the Nashville Post Office. "But it's a whole lot more these days. You oughta take a trip down to 'the 'District' if you want to see another side of Nashville," she says with a look and a laugh that suggest she's been there more than once.

The District is a revitalized section of downtown that's turned trendy with chic boutiques, funky restaurants and hot clubs that feature not-yet-discovered musicians and performers alongside the "big" stars. When Young and her husband aren't tending their farm where they raise Black Angus cattle, the two of them hit the lineup of new Nashville restaurants along Second Avenue. Everything - Italian, Mexican, Irish, English, Tex-Mex, Southern and Continental cuisine - has a place there.

"Nashville isn't 'all eating' as most people think when they come here. But it sure is a lot of g-o-o-d eating," she laughs, drawing out the word for emphasis.

Sandra Osman, secretary to Nashville Postmaster Stan McCord, calls herself the "Betty Crocker of the Postal Service," and with good reason. She's been in the area for years, and visiting postal people seek her advice before a night of dining and entertainment.

"If you're into ethnic food, you have to go to Tabouli's, an Arabic restaurant in the Hillsboro section of town," Osman says. "But my favorite place to have a great time is the Wildhorse Saloon over on Second Avenue. By day, it's a family restaurant with afternoon line dancing. By night it's one of the hottest dance clubs around with live entertainment and TV tapings Tuesdays and Wednesdays."

But if you want to go elbow to elbow with the stars, you're likely to run into the likes of the "Garth man," Tanya Tucker or Emmylou Harris just about any place from popular watering holes to local grocery stores. The Sunset Grill in Hillsboro Village and the South Street restaurant near the famous Music Row are where many of the stars head after day-long recording session in one of the many recording studios in the neighborhood.

If you drop in at the Trilogy, a new restaurant on Division Street, you're likely to see Naomi Judd or one of her daughters, Wynona and Ashley. The "see the stars syndrome" is so popular that even the local newspaper, The Tennessean, runs a column called "Restaurant Rounds" listing the latest star sightings in town.

But Nashville's sound of music is far more than country music. It includes R&B, bluegrass, jazz, rock, heavy metal, symphonic performances and gospel. Arthur St. Julien is a transplanted Louisianan and custodian at the Nashville Post Office. He's also a deacon in his church in Clarksville, a 45-minute commute to Nashville. He and his wife and three children are all gospel music lovers.

"Some folks call Nashville the buckle of the Bible Belt. In a way, that's true. Going to church is definitely part of the lifestyle here. And so is gospel music," says St. Julien, who spends many weekends attending concerts and sing-ins with his family in the Nashville area. "Some of the best gospel performers in the country come here to give free concerts sponsored by local churches and auditoriums."

Tammy Jones makes a career out of just being friendly. Tiny and trim with large, expressive blue eyes, she greets, serves and chats with her customers at a Post Office Express in the Kroger's grocery store in the area.

"Well, I'm here to tell you Nashville is a family town," she asserts in between waiting on customers. "I've been here 20 years and wouldn't live anywhere else. And the reason is the people here. Families do everything together in this town. They eat together, worship together, have fun together.

"Even the stars you see around Nashville - and some come in here - they're all family folks. They grew up that way, and deep down, under all that glitter, they're still just ordinary, nice, friendly people. Just like you and me."